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WHAT COULD GALLIANO

X

ZARA

LOOK LIKE

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BY ARISTOS PATSALIDIS

25 March 2025

Galliano x Zara is highly anticipated as a collaboration set to unfold over roughly two years, according to fashion media and the brand’s own social channels. During this time, the partnership is expected to reinterpret the house’s archives through a series of special edition collections. Although the broader fashion public debates this provocative union between mass retail and one of the century’s most influential couturiers, I have embarked on a mindful quest to critically imagine what these collections might look like.

 

To do that, we first need to acknowledge that no matter how groundbreaking Galliano has been in the past, the constraints of the ZARA formula will likely be more pronounced, dictated by trend visibility— as the brand’s aesthetic framework is rooted deeply in the predicting of consumer desires. Secondly, understanding that Galliano is undoubtedly one of the most intelligent creatives in the industry, we must not overlook the recurring presence of his work on the red carpet and in street style— for I personally believe that he has been deliberately releasing visuals to acclimate his audiences for his upcoming debut.

 

The years from 1995 to the early 2000s are clearly resurfacing in the latest collections, appearing in the street style and red carpet looks of today’s IT girls. This reinterpretation of archival pieces often happens by blending high drama with street-ready elements like jeans or sneakers. For example, in 2023, Kendall Jenner was photographed in a Galliano Autumn/Winter 1997 ensemble, styled with black leather loafers and sunglasses, while Hailey Bieber paired a 1999 Galliano fur suit with simple jeans for a striking street style moment. 

 

Although many have critiqued Galliano’s decision to enter fast fashion, ZARA has proven its ability to bring high-end, distinctive styles to price points that fashion lovers can actually afford. We’ve seen this with previous collaborations that translated seamlessly into the fast fashion context, including Pierpaolo Piccioli, Narciso Rodriguez—who famously designed Carolyn Bessette Kennedy’s wedding dress—Pieter Mulier, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Anna Sui, and other major figures in the industry.

 

Additionally, there is a surprising amount of common ground between ZARA and the couturier’s archival pieces—both from his personal brand and the legacy of the house of Dior. Those are:

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  1. THE SILK SLIP DRESS

One notable example is the newspaper-print dress from Galliano’s Autumn/Winter 2000 collection for DIOR, originally worn by Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex and the City and most recently by Jenna Ortega at the 2025 premiere of Hurry Up Tomorrow. The satin dress has also become a key archival piece for ZARA, reflecting Galliano’s distinctive design language and its recurring visibility on celebrities. This prominence follows high-profile moments such as Carolyn Bessette Kennedy’s silver silk wedding dress in Ryan Murphy’s Love Story, as well as the renewed visibility of Kelly Klein’s 1990s CK dress across social media.

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2. THE SKIRT SUIT

​With the return of formal dressing, the skirt suit—often presented as a corporate co-ord—has re-emerged as a defining staple in both the ZARA archives and in Galliano’s body of work. Typically tailored, sometimes cropped, and paired with a matching skirt—often cut above the knee—this silhouette mirrors the strong visibility of coordinated suiting throughout the 1990s across media and on the runway. After nearly three decades, the style is undergoing a measurable revival, with tailoring categories demonstrating approximately 20–25% growth in consumer interest and runway presence between Fall/Winter 2024 and Fall/Winter 2025, alongside steady growth projected into the Fall/Winter 2026 season.

This renewed momentum has been further reinforced by the emphasis on structured tailoring in recent collections at Chanel under the creative direction of Matthieu Blazy, where the house’s signature skirt suits have been reinterpreted through sharper shoulders, precise construction, and a more contemporary corporate sensibility. 

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3.THE FUR TRIMMED BLAZER

Few pieces capture the theatricality of Galliano and the modern appeal of ZARA quite like the fur-trimmed blazer with a cinched waist. This iconic silhouette has consistently appeared on Galliano’s runways and continues to resonate in contemporary fashion. Particularly evident has been the return of fur into fashion, with Google searches for “vintage fur coats” surging by up to 688% since the winter of 2023, and  118% increase in faux fur sales compared to previous years. Within the Inditex brand faux fur is clearly visible in tailored jackets with faux-fur trims, making it accessible to a broader audience, while the blazer itself remains a staple in Galliano’s archives, especially in his Autumn/Winter 1998–1999 Ready-to-Wear shows.

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4. THE MANDARIN COLLAR

Once a defining detail of Galliano’s archival work, the mandarin collar has re-emerged in fast fashion, reflecting a broader interest in elevated necklines and structured silhouettes. It has also become a highly searched trend within fashion, signaling both consumer curiosity and market relevance. Galliano prominently featured this neckline in the Autumn/Winter 1997–1998 Ready-to-Wear collection, Dior Pin-Ups, where it contributed to the collection’s signature blend of sophistication and theatricality. The resurgence of this particular collection is further highlighted by the return of red blush tones, prominently showcased in Pat McGrath’s runway looks and projected to increase by up to 83% for the upcoming Fall/Winter 2026 season.

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​Many of these pieces have been prominently worn by celebrities, both on the runway and on the red carpet, signaling their enduring influence. Moreover, they align with upcoming trends for the next seasons, with popularity and consumer demand steadily increasing. It is therefore reasonable to expect that the Galliano x ZARA collection could feature items reflecting these signature characteristics—but the full picture will only emerge once the collection is unveiled. The first drop is scheduled for September 2026, and fashion enthusiasts will no doubt be eagerly preparing for its arrival.

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Carla Bruni for Dior F/W 1998 by John Galliano

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Kendal Jenner wearing John Galliano F/W 1997

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Hailey Bieber wearing Dior F/W 1999 by John Galliano

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Dior Fall Winter 1997 Ready-To-Wear by John Galliano

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